Mezcal worm (Con Gusano)

The larvae emerge from small eggs laid by the butterflies on the agave leaves and burrow into the heart of the agave, where they are protected from predators while growing. Once mature, the larvae transform into chrysalis and then butterflies unless captured and pickled in mezcal.

The Latin name for this larva is Chilocuil cossus redtembachi, colloquially the 'Chincuil'. They are collected from June to September when the hot, humid conditions lead the larva to emerge from the agave. Chincuil collecting is difficult because the larva must not be damaged in any way. Otherwise, the mezcal would become cloudy.

For centuries, the chincuil has been eaten as part of the local cuisine for its outstanding flavour and its rich protein content (58.3% protein and 30.16% fats and oils). Traditionally, they are fried and eaten with tomato and chilli sauces. The Chincuil is also reputed to have hallucinogenic properties, so its addition to mezcal to add extra flavour and 'something special' is perhaps hardly surprising.

There are two varieties of 'worm' used in mezcal, the most common a white worm called 'blanco' and a red worm called 'rojo' (the latter living in the roots of the Maguey). Whether the larva placed in the bottle is red or white, any colour in the worm will be lost to the mezcal, leaving it light yellow after its pickling in alcohol.

You will sometimes also find mezcal with a small cotton bag tied to its neck. Inside the bag is a powder from crushed dried worms, salt and chile powder. A pinch of this powder should be sprinkled onto the surface of the mezcal before drinking.

Traditionally, the worm was a sign of quality. If the mezcal had sufficient strength, the work would be preserved intact. Sadly, for export markets, the inclusion of a worm in the bottle is now more usually a marketing gimmick to help sell inferior industrially produced mezcal.