Beagle (Closed)

Words by Ian Cameron

Address: 397-400 Geffrye Street, London, E2 8HZ, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)207 613 2967
Website: view Beagle (Closed)’s website
Door: Open door
Style: Restaurant bar
Food: Set menu

Review

Old railway sleepers appropriately form a wall around the terrace in front of the two adjoining railway arches which house the Beagle - one arch for the bar, another for the restaurant - located near Hoxton Station, which is on the way up Kingsland Road rather than near Hoxton Square. The venue takes its name from one of the locomotives that used to run on the old North London line - today, the London Overground rumbles overhead. Inside, the venue sets contemporary Danish-style furniture among sand-blasted bare brick walls.

A one-page drinks list is divided between up, tall and short serves, with the drinks characterised by flavourful spirits (rye whiskey, cider brandy, pine-infused gin) and quinessential English botanicals (lovage, rosehip, lavender), all compiled in thoughtful twists on classics, all £8-9. There's also a nice 'hangover' section with chorizo-infused vodka pimping up the Bloody Mary which heads the choice here. We found all well executed and presented.

A small selection of bottled, local brews acknowledges those who don't want a mixed drink.

The list is as original and esoteric as the trendy best-of-British food (summed up by pig's head croquette with gribiche - yeah, we had to look it up too).

If we have one complaint it's that the atmosphere is rather clinical and stilted - perhaps a reflection of the perfect newness of the place.