68 Heath Street, Hampstead, London, NW3 1DN, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)207 433 8139
Website: Not supplied
Hours: Fri-Sun 11am-11pm
Door: Open door
Style: Cocktail bar
Price guide: Middling
Food: Plates & dishes
Images By: diffordsguide.com
Set in leafy Hampstead, this new two-part venue from the team behind Purl and Worship Street Whistling Shop marks their first foray into restaurants. Dach & Sons offers gourmet hotdogs to a local crowd whilst upstairs is Flat P, a small but bustling cocktail bar and new atelier for a whimsical approach to mixed drinks. (Comparisons between New York's PDT cocktail bar and its symbiotic relationship with the neighbouring Crif Dog hot dog eatery are no doubt accepted favourably).
In keeping with the trend in London for upscale American diner food, Dach & Sons takes the hot dog to juicy new heights. Dogs made from locally sourced meat are paired with a comprehensive whiskey selection, in a kitsch environment where silver miniature namesake dachshunds pepper table tops amid white-washed brick walls. The choice of whiskeys is broad, with ryes, white dogs and plenty of bourbon, while the draught beers are available in 1/3 and 2/3 of a pint. The idea is to switch between different boilermaker combos and augment the food, which bears many of Purl's 'molecular' hallmarks - sous vide-cooked dogs, pressure-pickled cucumbers, smoked lettuce and vacuum-dried fries.
In contrast to this bustling ground floor is Flat P. Up the stairs you'll find an L-shaped room with the bar to the immediate left. Customers are free to wander up from the restaurant and a few seemed to stumble upon the bar on their way to the 40-seat terrace. Flat P feels a little like discovering an illicit poker game at a house party. Three comfortable navy banquettes and a chaise-longue - surely due a revival as bar furniture - complement the four bar stools. As at Purl, the music selection sticks to a 1920s- and 30s-era playlist. Service is personable and welcoming with the bartender swift to deliver water, conversation and booze.
Whilst the bar is small in capacity, the spirit selection is decent and includes a clutch of absinthes. Whimsy is, as we say, on full display. The Seasoned Margarita comes with an atomizer of Talisker 10-year-old and is garnished with slices of blue cheese and/or mackerel. Mr Hyde's Fixer-Upper, Purl's signature smoked drink served in a wax-sealed bottle, and a Sazerac arrives with absinthe foam. The first we found tasty and unusual, and the second entertaining and balanced, but the third was too sweet for our tastes. Hand-cracked ice, hewn from a block to the side of the bar-top, is appreciated but on occasion resulted in drinks that were a little dilute when used to shake. Pricing is at the higher end (cocktails hover over the £10 mark, while 25ml serves of absinthe weigh in at between £9 to £11).
This group's other venues have seen them exploring the molecular through a Prohibition filter but with its bustling take on American fast food, Dach & Sons lets you grab a dog, a beer and a shot before you head back in time.