Words by Simon Difford
'Gomme sirop' , 'gomme arabic', or 'gum syrup' is sugar syrup with the addition of Gum Arabic, the crystallised sap of the acacia tree, which adds mellowing mouthfeel to benefit many cocktails, especially sours.
When made with cane sugar (not beet sugar) this syrup is the king of sugar syrups, delivering the sweetness of 2:1 sugar syrup but with extra viscosity provided by the addition of Gum Arabic - so much extra viscosity that it can add a discernible smoothness to cocktails as diverse as the Daiquiri to the Old-Fashioned.
Most of the companies that commercially make this syrup are French, so it tends to be called gomme sirop, but is simply gum syrup in English. Like many others, I tend to mix its French and English names, using gomme syrup when I refer to it.
Gomme syrup was widely in use in the mid-1800s, and E. Ricket and C. Thomas' 1871 Gentleman's Table Guide includes the following recipe:
"Dissolve 1 lb. of the best white gum Arabic in 1½ pints of water, nearly boiling; 3ilbs. Of white sugar or candy; melt and clarify it with half pint of cold water; add the gum solution and boil altogether for two minutes. This gum is for cocktails."
Gum arabic, the essential ingredient to this wonderful syrup, is also known as gum acacia or meska. This fine white powder is made from the hardened sap of two species of the acacia tree: Senegalia (Acacia) senegal and Vachellia (Acacia) seyal. Gum Arabic is used in the food industry as a stabiliser and has the E number E414. It is also used in cosmetics, inks, and the textile industry, and is the glue traditionally used on postage stamps. Artists will be familiar with gum arabic for its use as a binder in watercolours.
When you come to make gum syrup for the first time, you realise why its use has declined. While it takes only a few minutes to make 2:1 sugar syrup, just teasing the gum arabic powder into a paste and then a solution takes at least ten minutes. Then you add your sugar and clarify. It's a bit of a faff but worth the effort. [To be honest, I usually decide it's not and use commercially made gomme syrup.]




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