177 South 4th Street,
+1 718 486 3726
View bar's website
Mon-Thurs 5pm-4am; Fri-Sun 4pm-4am
No Sports shoes
A solitary light bulb with 'BAR' written on it, and the warm glow through the shuttered windows of this fine red-brick building, identifies Dram's presence on this street near to the eastern end of the Williamsburg Bridge.
Inside is a snow-lodge schtick, the walls and ceiling covered sauna-style in timber, and with a kayak-inspired light feature above the bar. Squeeze into a seat and cosy up to your fellow drinkers inside the inverted letter L-shaped bar to watch accomplished barmen at work.
The menu lists six originals, nine classics and six modern twists, with tributes to Jerry Thomas, Harry Johnson and Don the Beachcomber, though guests are encouraged to simply specify a spirit, say whether they want it shaken or stirred, and to leave the rest to the bartender.
Dram has just started up a programme of visiting professionals tending bar, and on our most recent visit we were served by Erik Ellestad of Alembic and Underhill Lounge in San Francisco, mixing Harry Craddock classics in a cut-glass stirring glass.
Keeping its feet on the ground, a quirky and rustic vibe is in evidence too - note the wooden spoon used to lock the restroom door.