588 Grand Street,
+1 718 218 8555
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Mon-Thurs 4pm-2am; Fri 4pm-4am; Sat 2pm-4am; Sun 2pm-2am
Two pressed tin walls channel you through to a room that opens out Tardis-like, with a long bar dominating the long, thin space, decorated with antique mirrors and granny-like lampshades, before yielding to an open floor space and finally a small yard out the back.
Depending on which day you visit you're in for a different ride, from beer and a shot early week, to coffee and wine mid-week, and then cocktails later in the week. Late night the volume notches up and the venue effectively becomes a nightclub, with DJs after 10pm from Thursday to Sunday.
Get there early enough though and cocktails are made with finesse - everything jiggered, the lime juice tasted to assess its tartness - and a large collection of spirits on display that includes a collection of amaro and plenty of bitters.
Homemade infusions from lovage rum to cucumber mezcal, and drinks made with lapsang souchong tea help make a surprisingly sophisticated bar on a street that's far from salubrious.