Old Mary's Bar

Words by Ian Cameron

Address: 24 Craven Terrace, Lancaster Gate, London, W2 3QH, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)20 7262 5240
Door: Open door
Style: Cocktail bar
Food: Tapas/plates & dishes

Review

This cosy, atmospheric basement cocktail bar from the London brewery Fuller's is hidden under Lancaster Gate pub The Mitre Townhouse, the former home of philanthropist Lord Craven and a Grade II building which dates from 1850, just north of Hyde Park. Billed as a speakeasy, the candlelit surrounds are actually clearly signposted and reached by a staircase from the street.

The bar consists of several rooms connected like a rabbit warren - after all, these are former servants quarters - and you can easily hide yourself away in a nook or dark corner. The bar is named for the former maid and mistress of Lord Craven who was murdered in the house's scullery (apparently you can still hear her weeping).

Today, you'll find classic cocktails and modern classics priced at £7-9, with most executed well enough, especially considering Fuller's expertise is more focused on real ale, served in beautiful glassware by attentive staff. There's also a small selection of craft beers. A range of pimped hot dogs (around £7) emulates the PDT business model which is finding growing favour in a number of London bars - tasty but probably not that healthy.