Burger & Lobster Soho

Words by Ian Cameron

Address: 36 Dean street, Soho, London, W1D 4PS, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 20 7432 4800
Website: view Burger & Lobster Soho’s website
Door: Open door
Style: Restaurant bar
Food: Set menu

Review

Boy, is London hungry for lobster. This Russian-owned chain of eateries, a sister to the Goodman steak restaurants, has grown super quickly with sites in Mayfair, Soho, Farringdon and the City. And it's easy to see why: the dining concept is super simple (the menu is basically the name of the place) and the sites are like huge machines, bringing in literally tons of our favourite crustaceans and prime beef each week and efficiently processing the huge queues that form outside (no reservations).

This Tardis-like Soho branch might have a small street presence but inside it boasts an expansive, buzzy dining room, and down the left side is an enormous zinc-topped bar from where no-nonsense, full-flavoured original cocktails (£9.50) are served by an accomplished bar team. Don't expect fine glassware or prim garnishes, this is a utilitarian kind of place (hey, you wear a bib when you eat), but that doesn't mean the drinks, from the Thai Batida (a rum and coriander take on a Pina Colada) to the Thomas Keller (bourbon, blueberry, lemon and Sauvignon Blanc) aren't finely balanced.

Just drinking? Ignore the queue, head straight inside and if you're lucky you'll get a seat at the bar.