Bedales Wine Bar

The original of London's three Bedales market wine bars, this branch occupies an enviable spot at the northeast entrance to Borough Market's 'Middle Market' on Bedale Street, hence the eponymous name.

Functionally decorated with wooden tables and café chairs on a concrete floor, wooden wine racks lining one wall with chalkboard strips marking what bottles nestle above. Night lights flicker on each table but the lighting is too bright for them to break the dull atmosphere. A small terrace allows drinkers ringside seats overlooking the bustle of the market, while those after more intimate surroundings should head downstairs to the cellar.

Bedales wine list has very full notes on each wine, obviously written by someone in the know, but the selection lacks the depth and breadth one might expect of such a specialist wine bar. Sadly, the staff we've encountered have little knowledge or enthusiasm for wine, or indeed appear to be that enthusiastic about working here. As for food, think continental ploughman's with cheese and charcuterie platters. Again, these suffer from a lack of enthusiasm in their offering.

Bedales has a fabulous location and offers some fare wines but perhaps that location has led to some complacency.