Mezcal categories
For an agave spirit to be sold or exported with the name mezcal on the label, it must conform to government regulations known as NORMA (a.k.a. NOM), and these stipulate three classifications of mezcal dependent on these production processes.
NOM-070-SCFI-2016, which passed into Mexican law on 23rd February 2017, covers all stages of the production, and depending on machinery and methods used in each step of production. According to these processes, there are three categories of mezcal: Mezcal, Artisanal Mezcal, and Ancestral. A fourth term, Destilado de Agave, is used for agave spirits that are not certified or made according to the NOM.
Mezcal (a.k.a. Industrial)
Made by plant managers on an industrial scale using autoclaves, roller mills and large stills.
Artisanal
Made by maestros mezcaleros using a blend of modern and traditional techniques to produce good quality mezcal for the international market.
Ancestral (a.k.a. Traditional)
Made from wild and some cultivated agave using only earthen pit ovens and small stills – often clay stills. These mezcals tend to be above 45% alc./vol., partly due to their makers deciding this is the best strength to convey their craft but also due to their being mainly made for local consumption so alleviating the need to water them down to save duty and make price points in international markets.
Destilado de Agave
Destilado de Agave is the term for a spirit distilled from agave, which before the enactment of the NORMA laws would have been called mezcal. Destilado de Agave looks like mezcal, smells like mezcal, and tastes like mezcal, but they are now not legally permitted to be sold as mezcal.
If the producer or a batch of spirit produced by a producer is not produced in accordance with the NOM and registered to legally label mezcal or an agave spirit covered by another NOM (e.g., tequila, Bacanora, Comiteco, or Raicilla), then that spirit must be labelled as Destilado de Agave, Aguardiente de Agave, or Destilado de Maguey.
Some argue that these laws covering what can be labelled mezcal are good for consumer safety and, ultimately, for mezcal as they ensure quality. However, others point to the impact on very small ancestral producers who do not have the resources to satisfy the regulations or accompanying fees.
Catagories and associated processes
The following table illustrates the processes permitted for each of the three mezcal categories.
