Words by Simon Difford on 21-Dec-2014
159 Farringdon Road, (corner Topham St), London, EC1R 3AL, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)20 7837 1353
Website: View bar's website
Hours: Mon-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-5:30pm
Door: Go early
Style: Gastro pub
Recommended for: Food
Price guide: Middling
Food: Full menu
London's first gastro-pub is still going strong. To call it 'popular' is an understatement - lunchtimes and evenings see the place stuffed with visiting foodies, staff from nearby new media companies and hacks from the nearby Guardian.
A 'no bookings' policy operates and trying to get a table is like trying to get a tube seat at rush-hour. Sharing tables is inevitable and, to be honest, part of the place's charm. Both food and furnishings are unpretentious and no nonsense. The chefs work in a cramped, open kitchen space which is a continuation of the bar, and so are the focal point of the experience, almost a performance piece.
There's little to choose from beer wise with a couple of cask ales on draught but the sensible wine list offers six by the glass.