A late license – till 4am in the week and 6am at weekends – is very far from the only attraction at this stalwart of the Melbourne scene. Entered by a doorway that is such a model of discretion most walk past several times before finding it, the Melbourne Supper Club is heaven on a platter for oenophiles.

The feel, from the heavy leather furnishings to the scarlet leather menu is pure gentleman’s club. And with a 60-page drinks list, mostly devoted to wine, some fine Grand Crus and outstanding Italian bins in addition to the Australian elements of the list, this is, without a shadow of a doubt, the best place to enjoy a bottle or twain in Melbourne.

Later in the evening, as the palate wanes, is the time to pass through the space and up to Siglo, the roof terrace bar. There is no drinks menu here. Able bartenders knock out classics, shots and off-the-cuff creations to a peer group kicking back al fresco after their shift.