The Varnish (permanently closed)

Address: Behind Cole’s Bar, 118 East 6th Street (@ S. Main St), Los Angeles, California, 90014, United States

Style: Speakeasy
Food: Bar Snacks
Established: 2009

Cole's is every bit your all-American bar with solid mahogany counter and sports screens either side behind it. Its bartenders can knock up a decent selection of old school classic cocktails, and the French dip sandwich is worth a look. However, this 100-year-old landmark is also the portal to a hidden speakeasy.

An unmarked door opens at the back of the room leads to The Varnish, a Sasha Petraske-esque drinking den (the late bar empresario was a part owner) dimly lit by vintage industrial lighting and electrified Victorian oil lamps on wood panelled walls, where mellow jazz fills the room. Behind the bar is Marcos Tello, a self-taught cocktailer who has now written most of the drinks lists in town, and Eric Alperin, a Petraske protégé who has worked in his New York bars, now making cocktails from a list of just five at a surprisingly reasonable $13 - all relatively simple, expertly made drinks with intriguing flavours. There's the Floradora (gin, lime, ginger, raspberry and soda); the Brazilian Fix (Cachaça, lime, honey, Yellow Chartreuse); or the Fancy Free (bourbon, maraschino, bitters and orange Peel) for example. Or just go for the bartender's choice and you won't be disappointed.

Join the discussion

There are no comments for The Varnish.

Please log in to make a comment