Rancio

Folk in the cognac trade use rancio as a loose descriptor for the complex aromas and flavours derived from long ageing in oak casks, typically evocative of old leather, overripe banana, mushrooms, soy sauce, nuts (grilled almonds, walnut-like oiliness), raisins, prunes and other dried fruits. Many liken rancho to the flavours found in a rich Christmas cake.

The word 'rancio' actually originates from Portugal where it is used to describe characteristics of port wine during the maturing process. Thus, when rancio is being used as a descriptor for cognac it should more properly be termed 'Rancio Charantais'.

Rancio Charantais is generally considered to start appearing in cognacs after roughly ten years of ageing in oak casks, becoming more intense as maturation continues. It is commonly considered that there are four distinct stages of Rancio Charentais as follows:

First Stage Rancio (vielles): 10 to 15 years
Vanillins from the oak are at their peak. Also floral nutty flavours emerge.

Second Stage Rancio: 16 to 25-30 years
Spicier notes start to emerge in the cognac (curry, saffron, ginger), floral notes are still evident, particularly jasmine and cacao and dried, candied fruit is more evident.

Third Stage Rancio: 30 to 40-50 years
Old tawny port and madeira-like (cedar, eucalyptus) notes emerge with nutmeg spice, cigar box and tobacco flavours typical.

Fourth Stage Rancio: 50 to 70 years
Only exceptional casks will allow cognac to be aged for this length of time and after 35-70 years it is usual to transfer these very old cognacs into fifty litre glass demijohns as the cognac has reached the full extent of its maturation and to prevent the spirit taking on bitter woody flavours. Fourth stage rancio is typically associated with flavours of tropical fruits, lychee and sandal wood.

The flavour of rancio is not exclusive to cognac and may also be found in other brandies and aged spirits such as whiskey, rum.