Words by Simon Difford on 13-Jun-2015
43 Morgan Street, (corner Coborn Rd), London, E3 5AA, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)20 8980 6389
Website: View bar's website
Hours: Mon-Thu noon-11pm, Fri-Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-10:30pm (kitchen closed 4pm-7pm Sundays)
Door: Open door
Style: Gastro pub
Recommended for: Alfresco, Food
Price guide: Middling
Food: Full menu
Gastro pubs are a phenomenon particular to posh and upwardly mobile areas and the fact that this excellent example lies just off Mile End Road in Bow is testament to the continuing gentrification of the East End. Indeed, nearby Tredegar Square has been described as "The Cockney Eaton Square".
This old corner boozer sits among Victorian terraced houses. Inside is pure gastro pub with comfy sofas mixed with old wooden tables, chairs and the odd butcher's block. A steel grid covering the end wall displays works by local artists for sale. The splendid old oak bar counter is topped with chunky carved arches, making it almost altar-like. Behind this is an open kitchen and a dining room with doors onto a small decked patio.
Proper British pub food is served here: Morgan ale battered fish & chips, Cumberland sausages & mash and choice of burgers, along with the likes of pea & mint soup and steak tartare.
The wine list leans towards the old world while the choice of five cask conditioned ales on hand-pump favours local brewers including Truman's and Hackney.
The no bookings policy may persuade some to aim for an early arrival.