Gillray's

Named after an 18th century engraver, James Gillray, this steakhouse and cocktail bar lies within the 1920s County Hall building on London's Southbank with a killer view of Big Ben across the river. The former municipal building contains some rather down-market tourist attractions, in particular a seedy amusement arcade, which share the building with a Marriott Hotel, within which you'll find Gillray's. As you climb stairs up into the heart of the building there is a discernible feeling of fallen splendour.

Almost circular in form, the bar's magnificent room is eclectic and colourful. The lounge boasts a long bar with Gillray's political cartoons and caricatures dotted about the place. The extensive cocktail list displays some serious bartender exuberance with all cocktails listed being house signature creations, largely gin-driven fruity twists on classics and some 'molecular' creations - and some noxious-looking infusions on the bar. Although no draught beer, there is a good splattering of Meantime and other London bottled beers. 16 wines by the glass cross the spectrum of old and new world but are dependable rather than spectacular.