Drakes Tabanco (Closed)

Words by Ian Cameron

Address: No 3 Windmill Street, (off Charlotte St), London, W1T 2HY , United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7637 9388
Email: info@drakestabanco.com
Website: view Drakes Tabanco (Closed)’s website
Door: Open door
Style: Tapas bar
Food: Set menu
Established: 2013

Review

This sherry bar feels authentic, certainly so considering it's in Fitzrovia. Spartan and utilitarian, with wrought iron lamps, faux wooden beams and too brightly lit, it's nailed the 'hole-in-the-wall from Jerez' look even if this is a happy accident courtesy of the budget. A front bar boasting sherry butts and too-thin-to-be-comfortable benches along the wall mean standing is, at least, positively discriminated. At the back is a larger restaurant space complete with charcutería - think Iberico hams hanging down.

Drakes Tabanco's USP is sherry from the barrel, though due to legal restrictions it is not transported in these from Spain - rather less romantically it arrives hermetically sealed in plastic and is then decanted into the barrels. Nevertheless, the staff still theatrically plunge venencias into the barrels, though they haven't quite mastered the long pour so redolent of a trip to a bodega. Five sherries are served from the barrel, ranging from £4.90 for a 75ml serve of Off Dry Rare Old India to £10.50 for 100ml of Rare Solera Palo Cortado. Bottled fino is also available for as little as £2.90. The all-Spanish beer and wine list offers a small selection. A long list of Spanish dishes includes many tasty tapas.