À la recherche du temps perdu

It is clear that one of the sectors that has been worst affected by this lockdown is hospitality. In the current state in which all our venues have been forced into closure, I feel our sense of purpose as an industry has resonated stronger than ever before. The proof is in the pudding when our regulars and committed guests have reached out to support businesses no matter what the circumstances.

Days leading up to the closure, our guests' sense of sadness of what was to come, was palpable. During those moments, it truly resonated with me that hospitality and what we do, was not only an industry to serve, but that we also provide a valuable spiritual asset to our community - making room at the table for all walks of life, transcending background, nationality and gender; its inclusivity and shared values deeply embedded within human consciousness, providing a sense of belonging, purpose and freedom of expression.

I've never felt more confident in my sense of purpose within this community than I do now.
In our current state of limbo, we are collectively and separately running an uphill battle and taking each day as it comes. Many of us experience not so good days and also really good days, as we settle into our new routine and generate a good pace for moving forward.

Gift of 'time'
This is a massive experiment in collective vulnerability, when we discover our worst selves of being afraid, as well as our very best, bravest selves. However, through all this, with each passing day, I see the positive sparks of joy come to life in those who have found rhythm and hope during this gift of "time".

Strangers are actually talking to one another, suddenly smiling or saying "hello" as they walk past me in the street, while maintaining their distance. Communities are coming together and supporting each other's businesses. People are becoming more present in their relationships and in their families, as they don't have to run off to work. They can just be.

The earth is finally, slowly healing with the lockdown and so are we - we have "time" to stop and think about what we are doing with our lives, where we are going and if it's where we want to be going. We have time to stop and appreciate the beauty around us: friends, family, nature. We have time to cuddle our pets, cuddle our partners and find new insights in solitude. Now, as we face this global pandemic TOGETHER, we recognize that the most important values that can make all the difference are kindness, connection and support in whatever form they are expressed.

Remembrance of things past
And as it is with reflection, we invariably dwell on the remembrance of things past...and revisiting family recipes has sparked off this new "project lockdown". I so very much miss being able to serve my guests, friends and family, whether it be in my own kitchen, or at work, and the sheer enjoyment of hosting, entertaining, cooking and providing a place for people to socialize, is very much the inspiration behind this project.

I want to contribute and offer to the community what really resonates with me, to encapsulate where I come from; the people who have shaped and molded me into who I am today; all the places I've lived and travelled to; all the people I have cooked for and with; those I have wined & dined with; the countless merry occasions, from family dinners, balcony hangouts and cook-ins...

This is a subject I believe most people can relate to, for who doesn't like food or drink, to be entertained or to entertain?

Nostalgic for the home kitchen
So, I have decided to dedicate this wonderful gift of "time" in lockdown to the humble home kitchen, where I've delved into a treasure trove of recipes, experimenting, creating and rediscovering old childhood recipes – Swiss, Indian, Portuguese and other elements – from cookies, cakes, sauces, savoury warming stews, curries, pastas to delicious imbibe-able tipples that make or break the experience. Cocktails, NO-LO, wine, beer, pet-nat, kombucha, and the list goes on.

There's something special about a magical pairing. It's one of the ultimate joys of life! Just like salt, meat and acid being components to searing the deal in cooking, the same applies to drink. Having a tipple with food elevates and enhances the experience, sparks conversation and allows humans to share and socialize. Pairing drink to food doesn't have to be complicated or require one to be a master mixer. In fact, some of the most unexpected combinations are some of the most delicious ones!

The whole experience of searching, experimenting and indulging in re-tasting these meaningful recipes from my past has evoked a surge of nostalgia, renewed awareness and a sense of belonging. All of this remembrance has turned out to be like a series of internal Chinese whispers, a rollercoaster experience of rediscovery and deep-set nostalgia that comes with "going back to my roots".

This sense of nostalgia always sparks me to ask this favourite question of friends, people I know as well as guests: Describe for me your favourite dish. It's magical how such a simple inquiry can transport one back to one's homeland, a distant memory, a special person or group of people, and which invariably awakens our senses.

My personal favourite is a dish my ma used to cook for us when we were ill: A belly & soul-warming chicken soup, served with deep-fried anchovies (ikan-bilis) and a wee bowl of steaming-hot jasmine rice. Just the thought of it still hits a soft spot and makes my mouth water.

Nostalgia is a funny lil' fella, isn't she? She tells a tale of the pieces of our lives that we romanticize in an effort to preserve & elevate them. She's what we use as a universal language to remember ourselves, to connect and find similarities in experiences with others from different walks of life. Food & drink bring people together. And it's in this sense of community and shared feasting where I see you in me, and me in you.

Bringing life to food and drink
Food and drink may not save the world, but people committing themselves to kindness and compassion certainly will. The kindness that has sprung out of this pandemic, has made the world seem smaller. People feel more connected to one another.

And so this project/book, is for everyone who brings life to food and drink – those who make it as well as those who enjoy it in whatever shape, or form. Hopefully it will inspire people to create their own food traditions, or even revisit the ones they've left behind. And because some of the most memorable characters are drawn from food and drink, we should never forget that our story, as humans, is one of "warm-blooded, sensuous, emotional creatures for whom bread is life. We are not so much what we eat, but what we remember we have eaten."

#1: Orzo with tomato, prawn and crumbed feta
So let me start off by sharing with you a very dear, delicious recipe from one of my findings. I look forward to cooking this recipe by Ottolenghi that's become a staple in Tasha's kitchen - Orzo, tomato, crumbed feta and green prawns that I've been craving. It's a good one to re-create when one desires something warming to the belly. Actually, to be honest, this probably isn't really about the recipe at all...

INGREDIENTS

• 200g feta, broken into 1cm-2cm pieces
• ½ tsp chilli flakes
• 4 tsp fennel seeds, toasted, lightly crushed
• 75ml olive oil
• 250g orzo
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3 strips of finely shaved orange peel
• 1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes
• 500ml vegetable stock
• 400g uncooked shelled prawns
• 30g basil leaves, roughly sliced

METHOD
1. In a bowl, mix the feta with ¼ tsp chilli flakes, 2 tsp fennel seeds and 3 tsp oil. Set aside while you cook the orzo.

2. Place a large sauté pan that has a lid on medium-high heat. Add 30ml oil, orzo, a pinch of salt and a good grind of pepper. Fry for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently, until golden-brown, then remove from the pan and set aside.

3. Return the pan to the same heat and add the remaining oil, ¼ tsp chilli flakes and 2 tsp fennel seeds, the garlic and the orange peel. Fry for 1 minute or until the garlic starts to lightly brown, then add the tomatoes, stock, 200ml water, ¾ tsp salt and plenty of pepper.

4. Bring to the boil, then stir in the fried orzo. Cover, lower the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring once or twice throughout, until the orzo is cooked. Remove the lid and cook for a further 1-2 minutes until the mixture has the consistency of risotto.

5. Add the prawns and cook for 2-3 minutes until they're pink. Stir in the basil and serve at once with the marinated feta sprinkled on top.

PAIRING:
Either a wine: A classic Sicilian red... A chianto superior - can be tricky to pair with wine as cherry tomatoes are high in acidity, which can overwhelm many wines. Italian reds are, therefore, a great choice as they tend to be high in acidity.

Or, if you're thinking lighter, my personal favourite would be a Portuguese Vinho Verde - With its bright, clean, almost saline flavours, this northern Portuguese wine complements the freshness of good seafood. Expect lemons and apple blossom from this tangy, low-alcohol white wine.

A cocktail: If you're thinking cocktail, I'd recommend something that is vermouth based, relatively bitter with a touch of fruit that will enhance and cut through the rich flavours in this dish: 1 oz Hibiscus-tea infused Vermouth, ½ oz Tequila blanco, ½ oz Aperol, a dash of fresh guava nectar, topped with either Fever Tree elderflower tonic or Prosecco– served in a wine glass – a luscious tropical take on the Aperol Spritz. This was our "Vermillion Bird" at Mr Wong's.

If you're thinking NO-LO or non-alcoholic: 1 ½ oz Seedlip Spice, dark cherry juice, fresh pomegranate, fresh lime, a dash of honey – topped with soda – served tall.

Happy Quarantine-entertaining folks! Stay in. Stay safe.