Osteria Ca' d'Oro alla Vedova

This, probably the best-known osteria in Venice, is hidden at the end of a narrow passage off the Strada Nova near the Ca' D'Oro water bus stop. Officially named after its location, it is better known as Alla Vedova, or 'the widow' after the late owner, mother of Renzo and Mirella, the brother and sister team now in charge.

More restaurant than bar, Alla Vedova is wonderfully traditional in both décor and feel with a wood and marble bar, basic tables and secluded alcoves. It is renowned for its polpetti (spicy meatballs made with ricotta cheese) and, if it weren't for recommendations such as this, would only be frequented by locals. Alla Vedova gets very busy and if you don't book you're unlikely to secure a table. Alternatively, pop in and wash a few meatballs down with an ombra (glass) of Valpolicella while standing at the counter with the locals.