40 Maltby Street Bar

Photography by diffordsguide.com

Words by Simon Difford on 07-Sep-2012

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Address: 40 Maltby Street (Nr Junction with Tanner St), Bermondsey, London, SE1 3PA, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)20 7237 9247
Website: View bar's website
Hours: Wed 5:30pm-10pm; Thu 5:30pm-10pm, Fri 12:30pm-2pm & 5:30pm-10pm; Sat 11am-5pm
Door: Go early
Style: Wine bar
Recommended for: Food, Wine
Price guide: Middling
Food: Plates & dishes
Established: 2011


The curvaceous, white corrugated interior of this railway arch in the arse-end of Bermondsey doubles as a wine merchant's warehouse and a basic but brilliant wine bar and brasserie.

A functional interior boasts exposed brickwork and a bare grey painted concrete floor, while green enamel factory lamps hang over the long wooden bar counter. Chefs work in a tiny kitchen at the far end of the bar, turning out Mediterranean-influenced small plates in sight of all. Beyond, a cage-like wall separates the cardboard cases of wine lying in what is extensively a wine merchants warehouse (Gergovie Wines, to be precise).

Its USP - "wines produced by a handful of wine-makers who eschew the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides in favour of letting the land and the grape speak" - has its advantage in that wines sold by the bottle and glass here are superb and well-priced. There's also a nice line in boutique eaux-de-vie.

It's popular, especially on Saturdays, due to the adjacent Maltby Street foodies market - a smaller version of Borough Market. There's no booking so come early and you'll find yourself perched on a bar stool among locals rather than tourists.

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