The Pawn

Words by Theodora Sutcliffe

Address: 62 Johnston Road, Hong Kong, China
Tel: +852 2866 3444
Website: view The Pawn’s website
Door: Open door
Style: Cocktail bar
Food: Set menu

Review

The Pawn, a Hong Kong landmark thanks to its stunning colonial building, reopened in autumn 2014 under the stewardship of British chef Tom Aikens. And, alongside Jason Atherton's Ham and Sherry, that makes two true-Brit Michelin-starred reasons to head to Wan Chai.

A lift from the side entrance whizzes up to the first level, "Botanicals", where it opens on a wall of herbs: "The Kitchen" above is devoted to dining, while the rooftop houses "The Farm", an organic veggie garden. One half of the bar is retro gastro-pub, a nod to The Pawn's previous incarnation: mismatched prints, squashy sofas, a glorious terrace and its own service bar draw an expat-dominated crowd.

The other half is a slick and serious-minded cocktail bar serving splendidly inventive yet also adult creations with something to please most palates, from easygoing pineapple blends through to fat-washed elaborations. An Omertà, with dark rum, Humm, and coffee-infused Mancino vermouth was mellow yet complex.