The Irish are famous for their warmth, hospitality and a good craic, qualities much evident in a good Irish pub. The Dublin originals remain special places, quite different to the Irish pub brand exported to cities around the world. Besides its quintessential pubs, Dublin now also boasts a growing number of refined cocktail lounges and craft beer bars.

Originally founded as a Viking settlement, Dublin has developed around the wide sweep of Dublin Bay and is divided in two by the River Liffey. Its name comes from 'Dubh Linn', meaning 'Black Pool', a reference to a lake once connected to Liffey, which was used by the Vikings to moor their ships. Dublin is the capital of Ireland and is its largest city.

Traditionally, the Liffey has acted as something of a social divide, with the north side of the river regarded as working class, while the south side, with its Georgian squares, was affluent. You'll perhaps notice that the best of the pubs and bars tend to lie on the south side, but venture to the pubs on the north side and you'll escape the tourists and enjoy cheaper drinks. Dublin's postal districts are also divided by the Liffey, with odd-numbered districts on the north side and even numbers on the south side. The exception being Dublin 8, which straddles the river.

I've found the Irish climate tends to be moist but apparently Dublin enjoys mild winters, cool summers and even moderate rainfall. Dublin (which lies on the East Coast) has less than half the average rainfall compared to the west of Ireland, and although I find this hard to believe, it apparently has fewer rainy days than London, New York City and even Dallas.

The city's many famous pubs have helped make Dublin one of the world's most renowned drinking cities, and iconic brands such as Guinness and Jameson have contributed to the city's drinking notoriety. This attracts hordes of exuberant tourists enjoying the bars around the pedestrianised Temple Bar area and, at the weekends, a truly unbelievable number of hen and stag parties. However, perhaps thinking of tourist Euros, the locals don't seem to mind the invasion. Indeed, many of Dublin's 'style bars' are built on such a scale that it's difficult to see how they'd remain in business without the hens and stags.

Some 270 years ago, on 24th September 1759, Arthur Guinness took over a disused brewery at St. James's Gate, Dublin. His stout and the city are now virtually intertwined, and you'll be pushed to find a Dublin bar that doesn't sell Guinness - most will claim that theirs is the best pint in town.

It's rude to visit Dublin and not order at least a half of Guinness, and if indeed it is only a half-pint you're after, then simply ask for "a glass please" and not "a half-pint". Novice Guinness drinkers should also be aware of the essential settling time between the first and second top-up pour. Busy bars will line up pints ready to be topped with the second pour to save waiting time; otherwise, be patient and don't think the bartender has forgotten you.

The other great Irish drink export, whiskey (with an 'e'), has many different incarnations but with few notable exceptions, Irish whiskey tends to be unpeated and triple distilled. In May 2015, Teeling became the first distillery to distil whiskey in Dublin for 39 years, and unlike the Old Jameson Distillery and the Guinness Store House tours, a visit to The Teeling Distillery allows you to see spirit running from the stills and learn directly from the distillers. Naturally, there's a gift shop at the distillery, but for bottles to take home, you should also visit The Celtic Whiskey Shop at 27 Dawson Street, near St Stephen's Green. If you run short of shopping time, then Dublin airport duty-free also boasts a huge range of Irish whiskey and other spirits.

Below we recommend the Dublin pubs we thought glorious examples of a true Irish pub. Also, as you'd expect, we've sought out the city's very best cocktails bars.

Dublin's best traditional pubs

(We last visited in 2015.)

The Palace Bar
Built in 1823, this is one of Dublin's best preserved original Victorian pubs with stained glass windows and a high alter-style mahogany back bar with Romanesque arches rising to the lofty ceiling. A privileged few are invited into the hidden snug at the front. 4/5
21 Fleet Street, Temple Bar

Brazen Head
Dublin's oldest pub sits behind a castle-like facade creating a cobbled stone courtyard with an almost medieval feel. Indeed there has been a tavern on this site since at least 1198. The present building dates back to 1668 when the original tavern was replaced with a coaching inn. It was extensively restored in 1988. 3.5/5
20 Bridge Street Lower, Temple Bar

Doheny & Nesbitt
Doheny & Nesbitts is a legendary bar and classic example of a Dublin pub in both its patrons and decor. Its front bar boasts original Victorian snugs, bare wooden floors, carved woodwork and whiskey branded mirrors. The large back sports lounge is plastered with memorabilia and on rugby days is packed and the atmosphere electric. 3.5/5
4-5 Lower Baggot Street (Nr St Stephen's Green)

John Kehoe
First licensed in 1803 and unchanged for generations, Kehoe's as its better known is one of Dublin's heritage pubs. Its charm and location on a key pedestrian route just off Grafton Street ensures it is always packed with locals and tourists alike. 3.5/5
9 South Anne Street

John Kavanagh (The Gravediggers)
Better known locally as 'The Gravediggers', Kavanagh's owes its nickname to being located next door to the gates to Glasnevin Cemetery, one of the largest in Europe with the graves of many of Ireland's most prominent figures. This most traditional of pubs is a taxi ride away from the centre of town but well worth the small fare. 3.5/5
1 Prospect Square, Glasnevin

The Long Hall
At first glance, the red striped blind over the doorway and painted window might suggest an American bar, but inside lies a real palace of an Irish pub. The interior is a forest of carved mahogany embellished with ornate cornices, globe lamps, cut glass chandeliers, polished brass and gilding. The Long Bar is something of a working museum but it has visitors and an atmosphere like no museum in the world. 3.5/5
31 South Great George's Street, Temple Bar

O'Donoghues
O'Donoghues sits at the St. Stephen's Green end of what locals refer to as 'The Mile' of traditional Dublin pubs. It is famous for the live traditional Irish music enjoyed here seven nights a week. 3.5/5
3115 Merrion Row (nr St Stephen's Green)

The Stag's Head
Skilled Victorian craftsman made this a spectacular pub and it is quite possibly Dublin's best preserved Victorian pub. Carved mahogany covers the walls, dividing panels and even the ceiling. Original mosaic marble floors, granite tables, ornate stained glass and cut glass lamps with the Stag's Head seemingly embossed, or carved on every surface. 3.5/5
1 Dame Court (off Dame Street)

Dublin's best cocktail bars

(We last visited in 2015.)

Bar 1661
1-5 Green Sreet, Rotunda

Vintage Cocktail Club (VCC)
15 Crown Alley (corner Cope St), Temple Bar

Upstairs Bar at Kinara Kitchen
17 Ranelagh Village, The Triangle

The Blind Pig
Wicklow Street, Dublin City Centre

Peruke and Periwig
31 Dawson Street (nr St Stephen's Green)

Opium
26 Wexford Street (nr St Stephen's Green)

37 Dawson Street
37 Dawson Street (nr St Stephen's Green)

Saba
26-28 Clarendon Street (behind Westbury Hotel)

777
7 Castle House, South Great Georges Street