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Just got a bottle of Fee Brothers lemon bitters and their bitters are glycerin based; not achohol. Glycerin I believe is sweet (like antifreeze)? Although thier labels list achohol the amount is negligible as it's in the natural and artificial flavor concentrates they use. I'm going to Bob's Bitters website today to order some excellent bitters including Difford's margarita and daiquiri bitters which are top notch!
I asked Fee Brothers (via their web site) about the sweetness that John found in their bitters and got the following reply:
Hi Chris,
Thank you for reaching out to us!
At Fee Brothers, we use vegetable glycerin instead of alcohol as the base for our bitters recipes. The sweetness your friend noticed likely comes from the glycerin, which naturally has a subtle sweetness. However, it’s not added as a sweetener. Glycerin is commonly used in products for its texture and flavor-preserving qualities.
I hope this answers your question. If you need more information, please reach out to us again.
Good point. Yes, they’re using glycerin rather than alcohol as the base, ie as the preservative. Glycerin aka glycerol is chemically an “alcohol sugar” and is sweet tasting. The alcohol in their bitters is presumably from the extraction process - I’m guessing that they buy in tinctures, ie alcohol (ethanol) extracts of the raw material, then blend as appropriate. They also list artificial flavours, which is disappointing and which I can taste. So personally I’ll be sticking to bob’s and bitter truth for this reason.
I've only used their bitters, not their syrups or mixers, which I'm sure are heavily sweetened. Their bitters don't list any sweeteners but, tasting them in isolation, I can see where you might get that impression. It could arise from a concentration of fruit flavors, which is why I use them in the first place. I like the fact that they have a lot of different bitters focused on very specific flavors, like the cherry, or the celery (great in Bloody Marys). Their West Indian Orange Bitters, for instance, comes across as very orange-y compared to some other orange bitters, which is nice when you want to add orange and bitter flavors without too much additional "aromatic" complexity. Even their Aromatic Bitters has a distinct cinnamon note that makes it very different from (and not interchangeable with) Angostura, Bokers, or Bitter Truth Aromatic Bitters. I say go with the flavors you find complimentary to the drink and don't worry about sweetness. The tiny amount of bitters that go into most cocktails makes the sugars (if any) that might be present an insignificant part of the sugars in most any cocktail you might mix. They're hardly like amaros, after all. I also like the fact that Fee Brothers is an old, family-run business that's been around since the American Civil War.
Yes the sheer variety of products available these days is a bit overwhelming! Unfortunately the Fee family seem to have forgotten their roots and slipped into very industrial production methods at the expense of a holistic process. Maybe we should petition them to dig out the family recipe books from the 19th century! Companies like Cocchi seem to be doing a tremendous job of researching and revitalising historical products for the current day. I recently got a copy the Futurist Mixology book they published, fascinating reading for anyone interested in the modernist movement as it played out in food and drinks culture.
Big agree, finally found some lemon bitters and it was Fee Brothers. All their products I've tried are fantastic on ice cream also. Häagen-Dazs vanilla bean (or lemon sorbet), white grapefruit juice, a short pour of Pom and a splash of lime and a bunch of bitters never fails to satisfy. Oh, and add some Suze or Cocchi americano or such and I don't know why I haven't put on twenty pounds. Walk five miles.