Review:

Ice cream is integrated, rather than dominating this classic dessert-style cocktail. It's a treat, but it's not that sweet.

History:

Named after and likely created by London's first celebrity chef Alexis Benoit Soyer (1810–1858). During the Victorian era, this flamboyant French chef wowed royalty and aristocracy, moving from their kitchens to take up residency at London's Reform Club. Soyer left the Reform (where his signature Lamb Cutlets Reform dish is still served) to establish his Gastronomic Symposium at the Great Exhibition, including an American bar which Dr. Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown say offered "40 different concoctions including his own Soyer au Champagne..."

Soyer published several influential books, including his 1846 The Gastronomic Regenerator, which includes a number of recipes using champagne but sadly not a Soyer au Champagne. However, a "Sôyer au Champagne" cocktail does appear in the earliest French cocktail book, Emile Lefeuvre's 1889 Méthode pour composer soi-même Les Boissons Américaines, but this bears little resemblance to the cocktail we recognise today.

SÔYER AU CHAMPAGNE
Le Soyer au Champagne n'est que le champagne Cobbler simplifié. Emplir au deux tiers de glace pilée un verre à Cobbler. Ensuite remplir avec une coupe de
Champagne et eau de seltz ; sucrer avec deux cuillerées à café de sirop de framboises. Agiter fortement dans deux timbales; orner le dessus de deux tranches d'orange et servir avec pailles.

Emile Lefeuvre, Méthode pour composer soi-même Les Boissons Américaines, 1889

Seven years later, the Soyer au Champagne recipe in Louis Fouquet's 1896 book Bariana more resembles the modern-day cocktail (usually served in a coupe), although Fouquet specifies "Verre B" (Glass B), a Cobbler glass resembling a tall tumbler.

SOYER AU CHAMPAGNE
Verre B
Remplir de glace pilée verre B, 3 traits de curaçao, demiverre
à liqueur de marasquin; remplir de champagne Jules Mumm dry, bien remuer, chalumeaux et au moment de server, verser sans mélanger quelques gouttes de bonne créme de vanille.

Louis Fouquet - Bariana, 1896

The recipe in Frank Newman's 1900 book American-Bar Recettes des Boissons Anglaises & Américaines calls for Glass No. 8, "Verre Soyer", a tall footed glass with a bulbous bottom resembling an absinthe glass.

SOYER AU CHAMPAGNE
Verre no 8.
Prendre le verre Do 8, la moilié àu verre de g·lace pilée :
4 traits de jus d'orange,
1 cuillerée il café de sirop de grenadine,
6 traits de curaçao,
4 traits de marasquin.
Adapter gobelet en argent, frapper, finir avec champagne,
deux demi-tranches d'orange, servir avec chalumeaux.

Frank Newman, American-Bar Recettes des Boissons Anglaises & Américaines, 1900

The established modern recipe for the Soyer au Champagne originates from Harry MacElhone's 1922 book Harry's ABC of Mixing Cocktails, perhaps helped by its being repeated in the 1949 edition of Esquire's Handbook For Hosts, where it is said to have been "one of the most popular drinks at Christmas in the continental cafés." Both these recipes are served in a tumbler glass, and serving the modern recipe in a chilled old-fashioned works well, but lacks the sophisticated elegance that comes with a coupe; surely more in line with Soyer, the flamboyant Victorian celebrity chef.

Soyer au Champagne.
In a large tumbler put 1 measure of Vanilla Ice Cream, 2 dashes Maraschino, 2 dashes Curaçao, 2 dashes Brandy.
Fill balance with Champagne, stir well, and add a slice of Pineapple, a slice of Orange, and a slice of Lemon, 2 Cherries, 2 Strawberries.
(A very popular beverage on the Continent.)

Harry MacElhone, Harry's ABC of Mixing Cocktails, 1922

SOYER AU CHAMPAGNE
(One of the most popular drinks at Christmas in the continental cafés
Take a large tumbler and in the bottom put two large tablespoons of vanilla ice cream. Add 2 dashes of Maraschino, 2 dashes of Curaçao, 2 dashes of brandy, then fill to the top with champagne. Stir and add a slice of pineapple, a slice of orange, a slice of lemon, 2 cherries and 2 strawberries.

Esquire's Handbook For Hosts, 1949